JEWELLERY & CHAINMAIL | LEEDS
How does your technique bring out the hidden stories or emotions of the material you use?
I have placed an ill-fitting armour over a vessel of charcoal. The draping of the chainmail celebrates the beautiful fabric-like quality of this material, It sags like the folds of a vulnerable and soft second skin. I have partially burned the chainmail around this vessel. The molten metal has set into areas which become rigid, giving it strength to support its shape.
As we go through life, we inevitably have experiences which may alter our defences. I wanted my work to question the definitions of resilience and strength we draw from these events. Some areas of the piece are damaged yet are arguably stronger, whereas the untouched areas of armour remain intact but flexible.
Like meditation, the processes I go through in the studio are practices which over time, cultivate qualities and responses I call upon in life outside of the studio. Constructing a layer of chainmail is very slow, each link is opened, woven into position and closed to secure it in place. Eventually, when it is large enough to cover the vessel, I take a flame to it and burn areas of the work which have taken me hours to build. I practice holding control and also surrendering it when the time is right, to embrace change and the unpredictable.
Molten Vessel, 2025, charcoal, sterling silver • £9,000
Molten Vessel II, 2025, charcoal, sterling silver • £6,000
Find out more about Studio Katherine James here.
Gallery portrait by Jules Lister.